A Persian Grandmother and Her Secret Rosh Hashanah Recipes

Shared by Rottem Lieberson
Recipe Roots: Tehran, Iran > Sha’ar Haliyah (near Haifa), Israel > Jerusalem > Tel Aviv

Acclaimed Israeli cookbook author Rottem Lieberson remembers eyeing her grandmother Hanom in her kitchen, carefully watching her moves as she added turmeric, saffron, and numerous other spices to a large pot on the stove. Guests would come over for a meal and remark on how good the food was. They would ask, Rottem recalls: “What did you put inside it?” Her grandmother would reply: “Nothing. Just a little bit of salt.”  

Rottem never helped out in her grandmother’s kitchen and neither did anyone else, including Hanom’s three daughters. Like many of the best Persian home cooks, says Rottem, Hanom kept her recipes secret, even from family. In Persian culture, “This is the power of the mothers,” she explains.

When Rottem was just one, her parents moved from Kibbutz Naan in the center of the country to Tel Aviv, very close to Hanom’s home. “Most likely because my father wanted to be close to his mother's kitchen,” Rottem told us as we cooked with her earlier this year. She spent nearly every afternoon after school with her grandmother. Aunts and uncles always visited throughout the week too. Hanom would call the family to announce the daily menu and her children and their spouses would stop by for their favorite dishes, sometimes with bunches of fresh herbs in tow. 

Rottem (center) with Hanom (left) and her Swiss grandmother Giza (right) at her Bat Mitzvah in Israel in 1979.

Hanom’s 10 children were born in Iran and after her husband passed away, she moved with nine of her children from Tehran to Shaar Haaliya, a settlement camp for immigrants to Israel, in 1955. Her eldest son stayed in Iran and later passed away, Rottem explains. Tragically, another of her sons passed away after the move. 

Hanom held tightly to her eight children in Israel. “They would come to eat all the time. This was the most important relationship,” Rottem adds, and it centered around the table. “Any sign of emotion was expressed through food and cooking.”

On holidays like Rosh Hashanah, Hanom hosted up to 100 guests in her Tel Aviv apartment. The gatherings were “chaotic, but with a lot of love,” Rottem recalls fondly. The 30 or so grandchildren would escape to Hanom’s room and have pillow fights as the adults talked and lingered. 

Her menu for each holiday remained the same, unchanging from one year to the next. “It doesn’t change at all and I love it,” Rottem says. On Rosh Hashanah, she served khoresh sib, a stewed meat dish made with fruit, gondi, anshe anar or meatballs with pomegranate soup, rice with barberries, a cold apple drink called faloodeh, and more. And following Persian tradition, she used expensive ingredients as a wish for a prosperous year. 

It is in this repetition of dishes and traditions that a legacy was built, Rottem says. “This is the legacy, this is the power. I believe you give it to your children. They move it to their children. It’s in your body, in the blood.” Rottem continues to serve several of Hanom’s dishes at her Rosh Hashanah table, along with others she’s created. 

Today, much of Rottem’s work as a blogger and cookbook author focuses on Persian cooking. “I feel the power of those recipes,” she explains. Some are generations old and others are her interpretation, but “but still, the taste, the base is there… Food that is going generation to generation has so much responsibility.”

Sweet Challah with Caramelized Quince
Olive Salad
Cucumber, Mint and Sumac Salad
Red Cabbage, Date and Beet Salad
Fried Eggplant with Mint Vinaigrette
Ashe Anar (Pomegranate Soup with Meatballs)

Khoresh Sib (Lamb Stew with Quince and Dried Apricot)
Dolmeh Beh (Stuffed Quince with Beef and Cardamom)
Rice with Barberries, Saffron and Potato Tahdig

Toot (Persian Marzipan)
Faloodeh (Chilled Apple Drink with Rose Water)

Sweet Challah with Caramelized Quince

Caramelized quince is woven into this challah for an exceptional holiday loaf. This challah uses a starter, lending the dough a greater depth of flavor. Rottem recommends making it the night before you bake to save time.

Makes: 2 challahs
Total Time: 1 hour 40 minutes active + 12 to 14 hours inactive 

Ingredients
For the dough starter:
1½ cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon dry active yeast
1 cup room temperature water

For the dough:
5½ cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons active dry yeast
Dough starter
2 eggs
5 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons olive oil + more for greasing
1 to 1¼ cups water
1 tablespoon kosher salt

For the caramelized quince:
4 quinces, peeled, cored and sliced into 12 wedges lengthwise each
¾ cup sugar
4 cardamom pods
1 cinnamon stick 

For the egg wash:
1 egg
½ teaspoon water
1 cup sesame seeds

Preparation
1. Make the starter: Place 1½ cups flour, ¼ teaspoon active dry yeast, and 1 cup of water into a medium bowl and stir until combined well. Cover with plastic wrap and set the starter aside at room temperature overnight or for 8 to 10 hours.

2. Make the dough: Add 5½ cups plus 1 tablespoon of flour and 2 tablespoons of dry active yeast into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed for 1 minute until combined. Stop the mixer. Add the dough starter, eggs, sugar, and olive oil and mix on low for 3 minutes. Gradually add 1 cup of water to the mixture and mix for 3 more minutes until the dough comes together. If the dough feels dry, continue adding up to ¼ cup more water. Add the salt and mix the dough on medium speed for approximately 8 more minutes until it is smooth and does not stick to the bowl. Place a towel over the bowl with the dough and let it proof for 30 minutes. Remove the towel and knead the dough for about 3 minutes with the mixer. Grease a large bowl with about 1 to 2 teaspoons of olive oil. Transfer the dough into the greased bowl and roll the dough in the bowl to coat all of its surface with oil. Cover the bowl with a towel and let it proof for another 2 hours until doubled in size.

3. Make the caramelized quince: Place the quince into a heavy bottomed pot with the sugar, cardamom, and cinnamon over medium heat. Cook the mixture for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until all the sugar is dissolved and the quinces start to release liquid. Reduce the heat to low and continue to gently simmer the fruit for 1½ hours, stirring occasionally, until the quince is tender and caramelized, the liquid has reduced to a thick sauce and the mixture is bright red in color. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

4. Shape the challahs: Lightly grease a clean counter surface with a bit of olive oil. Turn out the proofed dough onto the counter and divide it into six equal balls. Roll the balls on the counter. Cover the dough balls with a towel and let them rest for 15 minutes. Roll each ball into a flat oval (about 11x6 inches) and tightly roll each oval lengthwise into a log. Cover the 6 logs of dough with a towel and let them rest for 10 minutes. Make two 3-stranded challah braids from the six logs of dough (about 20 inches long). Tightly tuck the caramelized quince along the seams of the challahs, 6 pieces of quince per challah. Transfer each challah onto a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Cover the loaves with a towel and let the challahs rest for 30 to 35 minutes, or until doubled in size.

5. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. 

6. Beat 1 egg with ½ teaspoon of water to make an egg wash. Brush the proofed challahs with the egg wash and sprinkle sesame seeds on top. Transfer the challahs into the oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes until the challah is golden brown and light in weight. Cool the challah on a baking rack.

7. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Olive Salad

This recipe is Rottem’s own interpretation, but the taste, true to her roots, is Persian, she explains.

Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Total Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients
2 cups pitted green olives
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 cup pomegranate seeds
⅓ cup pomegranate concentrate
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh mint, roughly chopped, divided
⅓ cup olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon roasted walnuts, roughly crushed for garnish

Preparation
1. Place the olives, garlic, and pomegranate seeds into a bowl and mix well. 

2. In another bowl, add the pomegranate concentrate, ⅓ cup of mint, and olive oil and mix until combined into  a dressing. Pour  the dressing over the olive mixture and stir well, until evenly coated. Add salt and pepper and mix well. Place the salad into an airtight container and refrigerate until serving.

3. Transfer the salad into a serving bowl and sprinkle the walnuts and remaining tablespoon of fresh mint and serve.

Cucumber, Mint and Sumac Salad

“When someone comes over, the first thing you do is give them a cucumber. This is the tradition,” Rottem says. The woman of the house, she goes on to explain, would peel the cucumber with a knife and serve it with a bit of salt. “This means she respects you and you respect her back. So, in every Persian meal, you’ll find cucumber.”

Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Total Time: 10 minutes

Ingredients
12 persian cucumbers, cut into quarters lengthwise
1½  tablespoon ground sumac, divided
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup fresh mint leaves for garnish (optional)

Preparation
1. Place the cucumbers, 1 tablespoon of sumac, olive oil, lemon juice, and kosher salt into a large bowl. Mix well to coat evenly. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

2. Transfer the salad to a serving bowl and sprinkle ½ teaspoon of sumac on top and fresh mint if using. Serve immediately.

Red Cabbage, Date and Beet Salad

This recipe is Rottem’s own creation and comes from her cookbook.

Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Total Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Ingredients
4 large beets
½ red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced crosswise
5 dried dates, pitted and thinly sliced lengthwise 
1 jalapeño pepper, finely chopped (optional)
⅓ cup fresh cilantro or scallions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
Juice from 1 lemon

Preparation
1. Preheat the oven to 395 degrees. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 

2. Place the beets onto the baking tray and bake for about 40 minutes, until fork tender. Cool the beets for about 20 to 30 minutes until easily handled. Peel the beets and discard the peels. Julienne the beets, cutting them into 2 inch slices that are ⅛-inch thick.

3. Place the beets, cabbage, dates, jalapeño (if using) and cilantro or scallions, salt, olive oil and lemon juice into a bowl and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve immediately.

Fried Eggplant with Mint Vinaigrette

Hanom always served fried eggplant, says Rottem. This is her own rendition of her grandmother’s recipe.

Makes: 4-6 servings
Total Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients
2 medium eggplants, sliced into ¼-inch pieces crosswise
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
¼ cup vegetable or grapeseed oil for frying

For the vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons pomegranate concentrate
⅓ cup olive oil
1 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds for garnish

Preparation
1. Sprinkle coarse salt on both sides of the eggplant slices. Lay the eggplants flat on a baking rack or plate. Set aside for 20 minutes. Pat the eggplant slices dry and wipe any excess salt off. 

2. Heat up about ¼ cup of vegetable oil in a 12 inch skillet over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, place about four pieces of eggplants into the pot and fry on both sides until golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes on each side. Transfer the fried eggplants onto a paper towel lined plate. Continue frying the remaining pieces of eggplant in batches and add more oil to the pan if needed.

3. Make the vinaigrette: Place the pomegranate concentrate, olive oil, and mint into a bowl. Add salt and pepper. Mix well until combined.

4. Place the fried eggplant onto a serving plate in a few layers. Evenly pour the vinaigrette over the eggplants and sprinkle the pomegranate seeds on top. Serve warm or cold.

Ashe Anar (Pomegranate Soup with Meatballs)

“This is my favorite soup,” Rottem explains. Her family serves it on Rosh Hashanah and on Friday afternoons before Shabbat settles in.

Makes: 8 servings
Total Time: 2 hours

Ingredients
For the soup:
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 large yellow onions, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½ cup basmati rice, rinsed and drained
½ cup yellow lentils
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
3 quarts (12 cups) water
1 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 cup fresh mint plus more for garnish, finely chopped
2 to 3 bunches scallions (about 20), finely chopped
1 cup pomegranate concentrate
¼ cup to ½ cup granulated sugar (optional)

For the meatballs:
1½ pounds ground beef 
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Pomegranate seeds for garnish

Preparation
1. Add the oil and onions into a large pot over medium heat and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes until golden, stirring occasionally.

2. Meanwhile make the meatballs: Place the beef, onion, garlic, cilantro, salt and pepper to taste into a large bowl. Mix well until combined. Take about 1 teaspoon of the mixture and roll it between your palms into a ball that is as small as a cherry tomato and transfer it to a plate. Continue shaping the remaining meatball mixture and set the meatballs aside. 

3. Make the soup: Once the onions are cooked, add the garlic and fry until golden,  about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice, lentils, turmeric, salt, and pepper and mix well. Add the water and stir. Increase the heat to high, bringing the pot to a boil. Add the meatballs to the soup, raising the pot to a boiling again. Then, reduce the heat to medium low and cover with a lid. Simmer the soup for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 

4. Uncover the pot and add the cilantro, parsley, mint and scallions into the soup and stir. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture back to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low, place the lid back onto the pot and continue cooking the soup on a simmer for another 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in  the pomegranate concentrate and. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning if needed. Continue cooking for another 10 minutes, covered. Add the granulated sugar if using and stir.

5. To serve, place a few ladles of soup into individual bowls and garnish with fresh mint and pomegranate seeds. Serve hot.

Chef’s Note: The soup can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Khoresh Sib (Lamb Stew with Quince and Dried Apricot)

In Persian cooking, fruits aren’t reserved exclusively for dessert, Rottem explains. They are added to stews with meat and vegetables like this khoresh or stew that’s served during the high holidays.

Makes: 4-6 servings
Total Time: 2 hours

Ingredients
5 quinces or red apples, peeled, cored and quartered
2 tablespoons lemon or lime juice
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1½ pounds lamb (neck/shoulder cut), cut into 1½ -inch cubes
1 tomato, finely chopped
½ teaspoon dried rose petals
⅓ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
4 cups water
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons all-purpose  flour
10 dried apricots
2 tablespoons sugar

Preparation
1. Place the cut quince and the lime or lemon juice into a bowl. Mix to coat the quince in the juice. Set aside.

2. In a wide pot or Dutch oven, heat up 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add the onions and saute for 5 to 6 minutes until golden. Add the garlic, lamb meat, tomato, rose petals, and cardamom and turmeric and mix well. Cover with about 4 cups of water and increase the heat to high to bring the mixture to a boil. Add salt and pepper to taste, cover the pot with a lid, reduce the heat to low and allow the mixture to simmer for 1 hour. 

3. Meanwhile, in a skillet, warm  3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Once the oil is hot add the quince, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves and mix, searing the quince on all sides until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Add the flour and mix well to coat all the quince pieces. 

4. Add the quince mixture into the pot with the meat. Add the apricots and sugar to the mixture and stir to combine. Continue cooking for another 20 minutes, covered until the lamb and quince are tender. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

5. Serve hot.

Dolmeh Beh (Stuffed Quince with Beef and Cardamom)

Hanom always stuffed vegetables for Rosh Hashanah. Often it was cabbage with cherries in the pot to make a sweet and sour dish. Inspired by her, Hanom created this recipe. “I took all the tastes she gave me and put them inside the quince,” she says. 

Makes: 9 to 12 pieces
Total Time: 1 hour

Ingredients
3 quinces
2 cardamom pods

For the filling:
1 yellow onion, peeled and cut in half
1 pound ground beef or lamb
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, finely chopped
½ cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
⅓ cup roasted unsalted pistachios, finely chopped
1½ tablespoons barberries
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon advieh (Persian spice mix)

For the sauce: 
2 saffron threads
⅛ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons boiling water
2 cups chicken broth or water
2 cardamom pods
½ jalapeno, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

For garnish:
Roasted unsalted pistachios, finely chopped

Preparation

1. Place the quinces and  cardamom pods into a medium pot and cover with water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to a simmer. Continue cooking for 20 minutes, until the quinces are fork tender. Drain and allow the quinces to cool . Cut each quince crosswise into 1-inch pieces. Use a knife to remove the core from each piece, keeping the quince’s ring shape intact. Discard the core and set the quince pieces aside.

2. Make the filling: Place the onion into a food processor and process until finely chopped, approximately 3 to 5 minutes. Alternatively, you can finely chop the onion by hand. Place the onion into a large bowl and add the ground meat, tarragon, cilantro, pistachios, barberries, salt and advieh. Knead the mixture together until combined well. Divide the meat mixture into balls, the same number of balls as quince slices. Fill the empty core of each quince with a ball of the meat mixture. 

3. Make the sauce: Place the saffron and sugar into the bottom of a mortar and pestle and pound the saffron until it is ground into a powder. Place the saffron and sugar into a small bowl and add 2 tablespoons of boiling water. Mix well and set aside for 15 minutes. Add this saffron water into a medium pot with the chicken broth or water, cardamom, jalapeno, and lemon juice and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Add salt and pepper and remove it from the heat. Set aside. 

4. Place 3 tablespoons of olive oil into the bottom of a wide pot over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, place the stuffed quince pieces with the meat side down into the pot in one layer and sear until golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Flip the quince pieces and pour the sauce over them until they are covered halfway. Place a lid on the pot and cook for 25 minutes, or until the quinces are tender and the meat is cooked. Occasionally, baste the quince with the sauce. 

5. Transfer the stuffed quinces to a serving plate, pour sauce on top and sprinkle with the chopped pistachios. Serve hot.

Rice with Barberries, Saffron and Potato Tahdig

No Persian meal is complete without rice. This rendition with sour barberries and a crispy tahdig or crust is from Hanom’s kitchen.

Makes: 6 to 8 servings
Total Time: 2 hours

Ingredients
For the sauce:
¾ cup barberries
7 threads saffron
¼ cup boiling water
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon sugar

For the rice:
3 tablespoons kosher salt, divided
2¼ cups basmati rice 
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into ¼ inch slices crosswise

Preparation
1. Make the sauce: Place the barberries, saffron, and ¼ cup of boiling water into a small pot and set aside for 1 hour, stirring the mixture every 5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of oil and 1 tablespoon of sugar into the pot and place it over low heat. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce is bright orange in color. Remove the pot from the heat and set it aside.

2. Make the rice: Place the rice in a large bowl and cover it completely with room temperature water. Soak for 30 minutes, rinse, drain and refill the water of the rice every 10 minutes until the water runs clear.

3. Fill a large pot with water ¾ the way up and add 1 heaping tablespoon of salt. Place the pot over high heat and bring it to a boil. Add the rice into the boiling water and cook it for 7 minutes, until it is partially cooked. Rinse and set the rice aside in a bowl.

4. Place 6 tablespoons of oil and ½ teaspoon of ground turmeric into the bottom of a 8 or 9-inch non-stick pot. Mix the turmeric and oil to combine. Cover the bottom of the pan with one layer of potato slices. Lightly and gently place the par cooked rice on top of the potatoes, do not mix the rice in the pot or pack it in. Using the back tip of a wooden spoon, make four evenly dispersed holes into the rice that reach the bottom of the pot (to release the steam during cooking). Place a kitchen towel over the pot, and place the lid above, tie the towel on top of the lid to keep it away from the flame. Place the pot over medium  high heat and cook the rice for about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking the rice for an additional 25 minutes. 

5. Remove the pot from the heat and remove the lid and towel. To turn out the tahdig, place a large flat platter on top of the pot and using a kitchen towel, hold the top of the pot with one hand and the plate with another to flip the pot and invert the tahdig onto the plate. Pour the barberri and saffron sauce over the tahdig and rice and serve immediately.

Toot (Persian Marzipan)

“You know, Persians, they’re not crazy about sweets,” Rottem says. Most often, fresh fruit and nuts are served at the conclusion of the meal but marzipan is an exception. Her grandmother would form marzipan into the shape of strawberries.

Makes: 20 pieces
Total Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients
1 cup blanched almonds
1 cup confectioners sugar
1 tablespoon rose water
½ cup granulated sugar
10 roasted unsalted pistachios, cut in half lengthwise

Preparation
1. Place the almonds and powdered sugar into a food processor and process for about 2 minutes until it forms into a sandy mixture. Add the rose water and process until a soft and smooth dough is formed, about 5 more minutes. 

2. Transfer the dough into a bowl and form small balls out of the dough (about 1 teaspoon each). Shape each ball into the shape of a triangle or strawberry using your index finger and thumb to create dimples on the sides and top of each ball.

3. Place the granulated sugar onto a plate. Dip each piece of marzipan into the sugar to coat on all sides. Poke a pistachio halve into the top edge of each piece of marzipan, as if it were the leaf on a fresh strawberry. Transfer the marzipan pieces onto a plate and serve.

Make Ahead: You can prepare the marzipan up to a week in advance. Store the marzipan in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Faloodeh (Chilled Apple Drink with Rose Water)

This fresh fruit drink was always in Hanom’s fridge in September and anyone could come and take a sip when they liked.

Makes: 6 cups
Total Time: 10 minutes active + 2 to 4 hours inactive

Ingredients
7 red apples, cored and grated
1 teaspoon rose water
2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
Water
1 cup ice
1 lemon with the peel, thinly sliced crosswise

Preparation
1. Place the grated apples into a glass pitcher and add the rose water, sugar (if using), and enough water to fill up ¾ of the pitcher. Mix and place the pitcher in the refrigerator for a few hours at least two hours, and up to 4 hours.  

2. Right before serving add the ice and lemon slices into the pitcher. 

Chef’s Note: Add ½ cup to 1 cup of vodka into the pitcher to spike the drink.