These Greek Recipes Are Loved by Five Generations of Women

Photos by Lauren Volo, Food Styling by Mariana Velasquez

Shared by Miriam Glaser
Recipe Roots: Corfu, Greece > Patras, Greece > Baltimore

Before German and Italian forces invaded Greece in the early 1940s, Miriam Glaser’s grandparents Emily and Emmanuel Velelli lived in the port town of Patras on the western coast of Greece. Part of a small Jewish community in the city with just 265 members, according to the Jewish Museum of Greece, their families descended from Romaniote Jews, who have called Greece home for more than 2,000 years. 

During the war, "When bombs fell over the city of Patras, one hit the street in front of the house, forcing the family to move away to safety,” Emily’s daughter Rachel wrote in a tribute to her mother on her 100th birthday. “I think that our mother surprised herself in her ability to adapt and in her resilience.” The family fled to the nearby mountain village of Michaleika where Elias and Kathryn Michalos, ardent anti-Nazis and Greek patriots, took them in, sheltering them in a small house built for workers at their winery. Holding the Michelos family responsible for aiding British agents, German forces burned down their house, but left the small structure where the Velellis were hiding alone. For the remainder of the war, the two families lived together under one roof, Miriam explains. 

After the war, her grandparents returned to Patras where Jewish community’s numbers had dwindled dramatically. Emmanuel returned to his business selling fabric, but worried about money. The father of three daughters, “He would have to give a dowry for each daughter and he didn't have the means,” Miriam explains. Imagining a better life in America, the family moved in 1956 to Baltimore with the help of the Hebrew Immigrant Aid Society (HIAS).

By chance, the Michalos family had moved there a few years earlier. Not knowing how to reach them, Emmanuel left word for them at a local Greek grocer and ultimately the two families reunited. “They stayed friends their entire life,” Miriam adds.

*

In Baltimore, Emily celebrated the family’s Greek heritage around the table. “She loved to tell us how to make certain dishes and she always made Greek food at her house,” Miriam explains. There were cheese pies called tiropita, leek patties, a dense and sweet raisin bread for Rosh Hashanah, and meatballs wrapped in spinach for Passover. Spanakopita, a spinach and cheese pie, was always part of family gatherings no matter if it was Thanksgiving or a birthday party. 

Another of her signatures were koulouria, or Greek butter cookies, that she had with her coffee every morning. Today, Miriam’s mother Rachel makes the recipe and Miriam’s young daughters love to help shape the cookies. At Emily’s 100th birthday party, the family sent guests home with small bags of them with the recipe attached, making sure it won’t disappear. 

Spanakopita

Spanakopita is often made into small triangular-shaped pastries. This recipe, which is made as one large pie and served in slices, is fitting for a home kitchen. Miriam’s mother Rachel makes it often. “I think it’s one of the ways she is closer to her mother, by making these foods. She’s taken on the role of the matriarch of the family,” Miriam explains.

Makes: 1 pie
Total Time: 2 hours

Ingredients
For the Filling:
2 - 2 ½ pounds (3 - 4 bunches) fresh spinach de-stemmed and roughly chopped or 2-3 packages frozen chopped spinach
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill
½ cup cottage cheese (2% fat)
3 teaspoons grated parmesan cheese
1 ¼ cups (6 ounces) crumbled feta cheese
½ cup olive oil, divided
2 eggs
2 tablespoons bread crumbs
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper

For the dough:
2 cups of all-purpose flour 
½ cup olive oil
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
½ - ¾ cup water

For the egg wash:
1 egg
½ teaspoon water

Preparation

1. Grease an 8 x 8 inch baking pan. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 

2. If using fresh spinach, heat a pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Once hot, add the spinach and saute for about 5 minutes until the spinach has wilted and softened. Transfer the spinach to a sieve and once it's cooled, squeeze the liquid out. If using frozen spinach, defrost the spinach at room temperature and then squeeze out all the excess liquid. 

3. Make the filling: Place the spinach, onion, dill, cottage cheese, parmesan cheese, feta cheese, remaining oil, eggs, breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon of ground black pepper into a large mixing bowl. Mix all the ingredients together until combined well. Set aside.

4. Make the dough: Place the flour and salt into a large bowl and mix. Mix the oil and water in a separate bowl. Gradually add the oil and water mixture into the dough, mixing with a wooden spoon and once a dough comes together transfer it onto a clean surface. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic (when you make an indent with your finger the dough should jump back up), about 10 minutes or so. Alternatively, you can mix the dough in a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment. Once the dough is made, divide it into two pieces, rolling each piece into a ball. Set aside on the counter at room temperature for 10-15 minutes, covered with plastic wrap.

5. Make the egg wash: whisk the egg and the water in a small bowl until combined well.

6. Assemble the spanakopita: Roll and stretch out one piece of dough into a square large enough to fit the bottom and up the sides of the baking pan, about 10x10 inches. Place all of the spinach filling on top of the dough and flatten it out into an even layer with a spatula. Roll and stretch out the second piece of dough into an 8x8 inch square that can cover the top of the pie. Carefully place the rolled out dough on top of the filling in the baking pan. Pinch the sides of the top and bottom pieces of dough to seal the pie, feel free to make a crimped pattern here. Using a sharp knife, make 2-4 slits in the top layer of dough to allow steam to escape during cooking. Brush the top and edges of the pie with egg wash. 

7. Transfer the pie into the oven and bake until the crust is golden brown, about 45 minutes. 

8. Remove the pie from the oven, cool for about 15 minutes and serve warm.

Koulouria (Greek Butter Cookies)

Makes: About 40 cookies
Total Time: 2 hours

Ingredients
½ teaspoon baking powder
4 cups all purpose flour
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
1 ¼ cups sugar
4 eggs
¼ cup orange juice
1 tablespoon brandy or apple juice
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon water

Preparation
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Place the baking powder and flour in a medium bowl. Mix well. Set aside. Place the brandy and baking soda in a small bowl and mix it well. Set aside. Separate the yolks and whites of 3 eggs. Use a fork to whisk the egg whites and set them aside. Set aside. 

3. Add the butter and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed for 1 minute and then increase the speed to medium. Cream the mixture until it is pale and fluffy, about 1 more minute. 

4. Add the whole egg and the 3 yolks, orange juice and brandy and baking soda mixture. Mix until combined well. Start on low speed, and slowly increase speed to medium. The mixture looks curdled and comes together after about 2 minutes of mixing at medium speed. Stop the mixer and add the flour in 3 equal batches, mixing at a low speed between each addition. Mix until a firm dough is formed (add more flour if needed). You should be able to tear off a small ball of dough and roll it into a log, then twist it while holding its shape. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes.

5. Whisk 1 teaspoon of water into the reserved egg whites. 

6. Once the dough has rested, divide the dough into two balls. Starting with one half of the dough, dip your fingers in a little flour and pinch off about 1 teaspoon of the dough. Roll the ball into a 7 inch rope on a lightly floured surface. Fold the rope in half and twist the two strands together to form the cookie. Place the cookie onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Continue with the remaining dough placing a 1 inch space between the cookies on the sheet. Use as many baking sheets as needed. 

7. Use the second half of dough to make cookies that are in the shape of an “S”. Take a ½ inch ball of dough and roll it into a 4 inch log. Use your finger to shape it into an “S” shape. Place the cookie onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Continue with the remaining dough placing a 1 inch space between the cookies on the sheet. 

8. Lightly  brush each cookie with the reserved whisked egg whites. Transfer into the oven and bake until lightly golden brown, about 15-20 minutes, rotating the baking sheet halfway to ensure even baking. 

9. Cool the cookies on the baking sheet and serve at room temperature. 

Cook’s Note: Store the cooled cookies in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks at room temperature.